The Coolest Archeological Site I had Never Heard Of, San Agustin

As we were riding toward the Equadorian border we decide on a wim to stop in Pompayan because the author of the guide book had really enjoyed it. Dave and I thought it was just mediocre, but we learned about San Agustin a mere 120 km (65 miles) away. Despite the relative closeness the road was horrible, and the town takes 7-8 hours to get to. Upon arriving one immediately notices the throw-back quality to the humble town. Horses are still a major if not the major form of transporation, vaceros roams the streets growling at tourists, and the colonial buildings in the steep mountains give it a truely unique feel.

Our guide liked to call himself Jerry Lewis, and lived up to his name by keeping Dave and I in stiches as we galloped around on horses to some of the known areological sites. The quote of the day was when we passed a guide that had tried to offer his services after we had made arrangements with Jerry. The man glared at us in his machismo way, and after we were out of ear shot Jerry remarked, ¨That guy thinks he has three balls.¨

We had a barn burner troting around the area listening to Jerry to jabber in the seven languages that he spoke and talking about which eight tounges he wants to learn next (and he will learn them). We visited different parts of the World Heritage Site including the Chakira (where the famous singer got the inspiration for her name) , several people's backyards, and the national park that was better groomed than some of the golf courses I've been on.


The major draws to the area are the statues and etchings in rock that Dave and I mocked and for which will probably go to H E Double hockey sticks. There are some that are from the same time as the Egyptian Empire over 5000 years ago. The Incas came to conquer the ancient culture just before the Spaniards landed in the 1500s. The advance culture knew that the Incas were going to destroy their relics so they buried them in order to protect them. This preserved them very well indeed because many of them are still in excellent if not flawless condition. Several still bear the original paint that was put on them hundreds of years ago as the statues still stand guard over the tombs of the people they resemble.

Of the 650 sq km area that the San Agustin area covers, only 10% of the area has been investigated for artifacts. Due to financial restrications there is currently no one working to dig up more, nor are there plans to. With the extended bronco-like bus ride, the alluring counrtyside, and the sui generis people the archeologists -when they do come- might find themselves in the same Hotel California situation asking themselves the same question that Dave and I asked, ¨Do we really want to leave?¨